The first step is to confirm the purpose and function of the valuation. This is crucial, as the valuation needs to match the intended use, such as retail replacement, insurance, family law proceedings, or a private sale. You will be walked through an industry-developed take-in-form which outlines the terms and conditions of your valuation and acts as a receipt of goods left for appraisal.

First, Gemstones are identified using standard gemmological instruments including:

• 10x loupe (hand lens)

• Refractometer testing for individual refractive index

• Microscope analysis analysing internal inclusions and flaws

• Ultraviolet light testing (fluorescence)

• Polariscope, Dichroscope, Chelsea Filter

 Next, the gemstone is measured, and its weight is calculated in line with the industry standards.

Then, the gemstone’s quality is assessed based on a detailed analysis of its size, colour, cut, clarity, and any other optical phenomenon or properties that may affect value.

International trade protocols are followed to analyse Gemstone authentication, size, and quality.

• Gemworld International - World of Color grading system

• Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee (LMHC) - Gemstone Information Sheets

• CIBJO - The World Jewellery Confederation – Industry Standards

Diamond jewellery, including loose and mounted stones small or big, are authenticated using standard gemmological equipment in line with over a decade's worth of knowledge.

Instruments used include:

• 10x loupe (hand lens)

• Microscope analysis analysing internal inclusions and flaws

• Cross Polar analysis

• Ultraviolet light testing (fluorescence)

• Magnetic testing

With the increasing production of laboratory-grown diamonds some diamonds may require additional testing and analysis which may be charged at an extra fee.

A disclaimer will be added to all items containing laboratory-grown diamonds

Example Disclaimer 

*Note: This document serves to inform that laboratory-grown diamonds are currently experiencing a rapid decline in value across various markets. Please be aware that market trends can shift, and this downward trend may persist or alter in the future. 

Metals are tested using acid or electronic methods to determine their caratage (e.g., 9ct, 14ct, 18ct).

Metal Testing in Jewellery Valuations can include the following techniques:

Touchstone Method for Metal Testing 

Method: The touchstone method uses a special stone to test the purity of metals, primarily gold. The stone is usually basalt or agate with a smooth surface.

Process:  A small scratch is made on the touchstone with the jewellery piece. The piece is cleaned before testing. Acids of different strengths (for various gold karatages) are applied to the scratch on the touchstone. The reaction helps determine the metal's purity.

The metal’s reaction with the acid indicates its karatage, verifying its purity.

Accuracy: Reliable for gold but less effective for metals like platinum or silver. Provides a good indication of gold purity.

Limitations: Involves scratching the metal and requires careful handling of acids. Less precise than non-destructive methods like X-ray fluorescence (XRF).

Advantages: Cost-Effective, inexpensive and straightforward, simple and direct providing immediate visual results.

X-Ray Fluorescence (XRF) Analysis 

Method: XRF uses X-ray technology to determine the composition of a metal. The X-rays excite atoms in the metal, causing them to emit fluorescent X-rays that are measured to identify the metal’s composition.

Process: The jewellery piece is placed in an XRF machine, which scans the metal and produces a detailed report of its elemental composition.

Accuracy: XRF is highly accurate and non-destructive, providing a comprehensive analysis of the metal’s composition, including trace elements.

Cost: This method will be charged at an extra fee and only used if standard methods fail.

Specific Gravity Test 

Method: This test measures the density of the metal by comparing its weight in air versus its weight when submerged in water.

Process: The item is weighed in air and then in water. The difference in weight is used to calculate the metal's density, which can be compared to known densities of precious metals.

Accuracy: This method is accurate for determining metal density but requires careful measurement and calculation.

Limitations: This method can only be used if the item is metal only with no gemstones set.

Identifying the method of manufacture is a crucial part in the valuation process, the value can vary greatly between the different techniques, whether it is cast, handmade, or a combination of both and the quality of the finish provided.

Some common types of jewellery manufacturing:

Casting: A mould is created from a  wax or resin model, which is then melted or burned out. Molten metal is poured into the mould to form the jewellery piece.

Hand Making: Jewellery is crafted entirely by hand using traditional techniques. This involves shaping, soldering, and setting gemstones manually.

Stamping: Metal sheets are stamped with designs using dies and presses. The process involves cutting or embossing patterns into the metal.

Used for mass production of jewellery with repeated patterns, such as charms and small pendants.

Electroforming: A model or mould is coated with a conductive layer, and then metal is electroplated onto it. The result is a hollow, lightweight piece.

Used for creating large, intricate designs that are lighter than solid metal pieces.

Mokume Gane: Multiple layers of different metals are fused together and then hammered or rolled to create a wood-grain effect. The result is a unique, multi-metal pattern.

Each manufacturing method offers distinct advantages and is chosen based on the design requirements, desired finish, and production scale.

Each setting type within the jewellery item (e.g., grain, claw, rub over, channel) is individually assessed for quality and complexity, as different setting styles and the quality of setting can impact the overall valuation.

Why it is important to have Professional Photos on Valuation Documents:

High-quality images from multiple angles capture all details and unique features, ensuring precise identification and reducing misidentification risks.

Detailed photos provide a thorough visual record, crucial for accurate documentation, insurance, and legal purposes, and help track the piece’s condition over time.

Clear, professional images enhance understanding of the piece’s attributes and build trust in the valuation's accuracy and professionalism.

Carina uses three angles which ensures a complete and precise visual representation of the jewellery item being assessed.

A detailed price is assigned to each component of the piece at each stage of the assessment, including the gemstones, diamonds, metals used, method of manufacture, and quality of settings used. 

These values are combined to establish the estimated worth based on its market purpose stated on the take-in-form. 

The final valuation is documented on a customised CTW certificate, which is accompanied by a high-definition photograph of the item.

The final step in the process is the return of your item along with the accompanying documentation. Upon delivery, your signature will be required to acknowledge the safe return of your valuable piece.